Weingut Keller, "Limestone" Kabinett Riesling 2019
Run by the Keller family to this day with the wife-and-husband team of Julia and Klaus-Peter, Weingut Keller continues an unbroken family lineage going back to the first vintage of 1789, when Johann Leonhard Keller acquired four hectares of the famed Hubacker vineyard, now entering their eleventh generation of contiguous Keller oversight. Today they farm approximately 100 hectares, including the epic grosses gewächs (German Grand Cru vineyards) of Kirchspiel and Abtserde, among others.
Keller’s wines are probably the most desired in all of Germany, and among the most coveted in the world. Sommeliers have a notorious adulation of Riesling bordering on farcical, but experiencing a Keller Riesling truly is eye-opening to the alchemical wonders of this noble varietal. On the top end, their incredibly limited “G-Max” Riesling trades for up to $4,000 – a bottle!
"Kabinett" is a measure of the grape ripeness and, ultimately, a hint of the residual sugar level in German Riesling. Keller's Kabinett Rieslings are where the true complexities start to develop. Yes, this has a *hint* of sweetness but is absolutely necessary to convey and maximize its fruit intensity. You'll be left with no doubt that terroir matters when tasting Keller's "Limestone" cuvée and its salty, wet-slate, rocky limestone minerality.
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