Sean Thackrey "Andromeda" Pinot Noir 2013
Devil's Gulch Ranch, Marin County
A practitioner of truly artisan, hands-on winemaking, Thackrey has been crafting idiosyncratic wines in his small Bolinas winery since 1980. Completely self-taught, he believes in touching every grape and working closely with the land, channeling centuries-old techniques based on medieval and apocryphal texts. His constellation series of wines echo these techniques: for example, he is known to leave fermenting barrels of grapes out overnight under the stars to commune with night sky. Regardless of whether you attribute any significance to his methods, he makes damn fine wine.
Known more for its charming hamlets and constant drizzle, Marin County lies just north of San Francisco across the Golden Gate and has more climatically in common with the British seaside than its nearby Sonoma neighbors; a mere handful of microclimates are warm enough to support grape ripening.
The Devil's Gulch Ranch vineyard is one such site – quite "Burgundian" in quality. Thackrey's Devil's Gulch Pinots always have this haunting riper cherry aspect to them as well. This limited library selection shows developing notes bay, eucalyptus, and raspberry cream.
The critic Jeb Dunnuck writes:
"Coming from a cool, windy site in Marin County, the 2013 Pinot Noir Andromeda is another singular wine from this estate. Tons of cured meats, stemmy herbs, kirsch liqueur, and exotic baking spices all emerge from this layered, light-on-its-feet, yet intense Pinot Noir. It opens up beautifully with time in the glass and develops terrific floral and spicy nuances, with no hard edges, medium body, and a great finish. Drink it any time through 2028."
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