Léguillette-Romelot, "Cépages d’Autrefois" Blanc de Blancs Brut MV
Petit Meslier Blend｜Champagne, France
Bordering the western front of Champagne, the house of Léguillette-Romelot is run by Christine Léguillette who, along with her late husband Laurent, carried on a tradition started in 1968 with the marriage of the Léguillette and Romelot families. They're based in the village of Charly-sur-Marne, Champagne, a wonderful hamlet in the larger Vallée de la Marne Ouest.
This Blanc de Blancs is unique not only for its idiosyncratic profile but for its composition. You see, typically a Blanc de Blancs consists of Chardonnay, but there are other white heirloom varieties that have historically grown in Champagne, albeit in minuscule quantities. Hold on to your hats: this blend is comprised of some of the rarest varietals in Champagne, with the elusive Petit Meslier leading the way at 63%, followed by 29% Pinot Blanc, 6% Chardonnay, and 2% Arbanne – another hard-to-find grape. In all, they say there are less than five hectares total in all of Champagne dedicated to Petit Meslier and Arbanne.
Abounding with a veritable garden-full of orchard fruits, this is a Champagne that’s more Burgundian in style, with lots of “vinous” notes (a geeky sommelier term for “wine-y”). Red apple skin, Bosc pear, apricot pit, and macadamia nut lead into a palate that’s rounded but dry, with mouthwatering minerality and well-developed fruit notes. Incredibly primary now, it’s certainly has longevity and will take on characteristics reminiscent of a white Burgundy (think Meursault) with a bit of bottle age. We’ve bought a six-pack to tuck away and watch its evolution!
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