Fattoria Fubbiano "I Pampini" 2015
From Le Colline Lucchesi ("the hills of Lucca"), Fattoria di Fubbiano has crafted a luxurious, plush, and indelible rosso modeled in the style of the finest "Super-Tuscan" classic reds.
Located just a few kilometers from the charismatic walled town of Lucca, Fattoria Fubbiano is a holistic working farm and winery, dating back to the 17th century. Organics are spoken fluently here: everything grown is natural, chemical-free, and dry-farmed – from the olive orchards, wildflowers, and the grapevines, of course – the fattoria here is a thriving polycultural paradise.
In the 1970s, a select group of producers bucked the trend of typical Tuscan blends of Sangiovese and other local grapes, opting to make wine outside the strict requirements of what was then required. Some of these blends included a dose of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and even Syrah. The new style that emerged was dubbed a “Super-Tuscan.”
Fubbiano pays homage to that category with their “I Pampini,” a blend of native Sangiovese and a hearty dose of Teroldego, a grape originally native to northern Italy that finds a wonderful home at Fubbiano’s bucolic estate. While you won’t find any of those “international” varieties like Cab Sauv or Syrah here, it’s as true to the Super-Tuscan spirit as it gets. Natural fermentation takes place in oak barriques, then finished in their large oval botti, bottled unfined and unfiltered for an all-natural, classic Super-Tuscan at a price you can’t say no to.
This rosso is 80% Sangiovese and 20% Teroldego. You’ll immediately notice a deeper crimson hue, complemented by aromas of spiced plums, mulberry, tanned leather, and cocoa nib. At a perfect seven years of age, this 2015 is hitting its stride with suave tannins, a polished midpalate, and a delightful blend of spiced fruits with a bit of warmed Tuscan earth to the finish. Sangiovese’s rose-petal-cherry notes perfectly complement Teroldego’s wild, deeper scents and together they form a whole greater than their individual sums.
As Fubbiano's U.S. importer aptly puts it, the "Teroldego adds a seductive, Gothic twist to Sangiovese."
An ideal companion to all the Lucchesi specialties, such as panzanella tomato-and-bread salad or Rovelline Lucchesi – thinly sliced veal in tomato sauce with capers and fresh Tuscan herbs, ideally finished with a peppery Tuscan finishing olio.
Hard to find is an understatement – you won't find this vintage, or any other recent vintage, on the open market anywhere else in the country. Not only is it a Prologue exclusive, but a ridiculous under-$30 value; its "Super-Tuscan" peers will easily fetch twice as much. Alla salute!
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