• Domaine Bourgogne-Devaux, "La Perriere" Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2019

Domaine Bourgogne-Devaux, "La Perriere" Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2019

Pinot Noir|Burgundy. France

How much more authentic does it get than having “Burgundy” in your name? That’s the story with the Bourgogne-Devaux family, who’ve held vineyards in Burgundy since 1899. As is the case with most farmer-growers in the region, they sold most of their fruit to the large maisons for bulk blends for over a hundred years, until 2012, at which time Luc Bourgogne, the fourth generation, began bottling wine under the family’s own “domaine” label, exclusively from their own holdings. (Jealous side note: what a name – Luke Burgundy!)

Their vineyards stretch from the western portion of the upper slopes (“Hautes-Côtes") of Beaune east to Pommard. This bottling comes from those western slopes from the single plot “La Perriere,” so named for the large stones quarried from the site; those iron-rich, stony remnants still extant contribute a full, lush, well-rounded profile. You’ll find in the glass deep, brooding notes of damson plum, autumn leaf, with a freshly-tilled quality to the earthiness, an iron-rich core of red-black fruit, beetroot, and warm spice.

“La Perriere” couldn’t be a finer site; sitting at over 1000 feet, it has ideal southerly exposures with well-draining, iron-rich soil and 40-plus year-old vines. Fruit is given the royal treatment befitting a wine twice its stature: hand-harvested and fermented naturally in cement tank, then aged for twelve months in oak, a portion of which is new. Tasted blind I was sure this was a village-level-or-better bottling, reminiscent of a Pommard or Volnay.

I’m a firm believer that the regional-level “Bourgogne” category holds outsized value as compared to its more expensive brethren, especially when focusing on single-vineyard expressions like this. Were the site just a few kilometers to the east, one could imagine the wine falling in a Premier Cru or better rated bottling and the price concurrently shooting through the roof. This minor topographical detail means a bottle of pedigree and class for a fraction of comparable red Burgs on the market today. Enjoy with abandon knowing you’re getting a heck of a lot of Pinot for your dollar! Cheers!

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