Pere Mata, "Trepat" Extra Brut Rosé Cava 2018
Cava is far, far more interesting and diverse than the “bargain-grocery store aisle" bubbly of yore. A slew of new regulations in the nascent stages of implementation are setting fine Cava apart from the mass-produced cheapos out there. Laws regarding minimum aging on the lees (the all-important yeast cells), mandatory organic farming, and scrupulous vintage dating are all becoming de rigueur for this respected category of fine sparkling wine.
In fact, the president of the Cava Regulatory Board calls these measures “the most demanding regulation in the world for quality sparkling wines made using the traditional [Champagne] method.”
Enter Pere Mata, an iconoclastic winemaker in the historic heart of cava country, Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, in Catalunya. A vanguard of natural Cava and a refreshing counterpoint to industrial bottlings, his vineyards are farmed 100% organically, all by hand, treated with the utmost care, passion, and transparency and the explicit goal of crafting Spain’s answer to fine Champagne. The slate and quartzite soils impart defined minerality, and in this cuvée that terroir rings as clear as a bell.
This special release of 2018 rosé comes from 100% Trepat, a rare indigenous varietal hardly known outside of Sant Sadurní d’Anoia. With loads of red and pink fruit and an energetic mousse, the wine bursts forth with raspberry, sour cherry candy, crushed green herbs, and a lovely, salt-rock finish with loads of minerals and stone. The dosage is incredibly low – Extra Brut – making for a brisk, spicy, ultra-dry finish to complement the orchard fruits, soft red berries and pink fruits that jump from the glass. This is a gorgeous wine that seems way too much fun (and way too delicious) for its modest $25 price point!
In the coming years, we’ll see more and more of these high-quality “grower-producer” Cavas on the market, which will no doubt garner huge attraction, deservedly. Until then, rest assured you’ll be in an exclusive club of those in-the-know today.
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