Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine "Les Crenilles" Bourgogne Blanc 2018


Make no mistake: as small a region as it is, there is a stunning amount of large-company-owned land and consolidation in Burgundy. Popularity of its wines and eye-wateringly high land prices have contributed to a mad rush to Burgundy over the last decade and it's becoming ever increasingly hard to find solid value plays on natural, family-run Pinot & Chardonnay.

Consider, then, the wonderful Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine, run by Christine Gruère-Dubreuil, the fifth generation in her family to direct the domaine, with her daughter Clémentine set to be the sixth generation stewarding it into the future. I fondly recollect sharing a meal with Christine Dubreuil and her family at a winemaking dinner some fourteen years ago – her daughter Clémentine was barely old enough to see over the table!

Their Bourgogne Blanc is all class and polish. In 2018 the body is a bit more full, the terroir and mineral precision as clear as a bell. Lemon blossoms, vivacious minerality and limestone precision jump out of the glass. Truly, it drinks like a wine twice its price. No wonder, as "Les Crenilles" happens to be found in Pommard; alas the appellation rules for Pommard allow only red wine, otherwise this would be listed as such (with the price trebled accordingly)!

The family's vineyard holdings are exclusively located in the Côte de Beaune, centered around historic, multi-million terroir: Corton, Pommard, Pernand-Vergelesses, and Volnay. Their 20 hectares are all sustainably farmed, hand harvested, and fermented all naturally. All family-run and family-owned; no purchased fruit or leased land to be found.

A stunning wine by any measure, made all the more impressive by its exclusivity and minuscule production.

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